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Discover The Giant Gecko

Rhacodactylus leachianus, commonly known as New Caledonian Giant Gecko, is the largest known living gecko. The amazing size is only one of the really fascinating characteristics of this gecko. The broad vocal patterns and ability to communicate aggression has coined this gecko “Devil In the Trees” by locals of New Caledonia. The many different physical variations are characterized by locality and the beginning of line breeding is peaking interest of the reptile community. R. leachianus leachianus inhabits Grande Terre while the sub-species R. leachianus henkeli are slightly smaller and inhabit the satellite islands off the coast of New Caledonia. With so many unique characteristics, that can appeal to any level of hobbyist, the leachianus is at the top of the list of geckos from the genus to work with.

Distribution 
The species leachianus is broken up into the greater Grande Terre species, Rhacodactylus leachianus leachianus, and the sub-species of the offshore islands, Rhacodactylus leachianus henkeli. Below are the common localities found in the hobby today.

• R. leachianus leachianus (Grande Terre): Poindimie, Mount Koghis, Yate, Mount Humboldt and Riviere Bleue

 

• R. leachianus henkeli (Offshore): Isle of Pines, Menore, Bayonnaise, Moro, Duu Ana, Nuu Ana, Nuu Ami, Koe, Brosse, Caanawa

Description 
The Grande Terre species is the largest averaging 10.5″ (Snout to Vent Length) while the Offshore counterparts stay under 6″ (Snout to Vent Length). The  body of the Giant Gecko is almost uniform from head to tail with extensive dermal folds. A short tail that is used far less for balance than any of the counterparts of the genus. Average sizes are listed below, however the size is specific to localities and the figures below represent the average and largest lengths to date of all localities from their respective species. R. leachianus leachianus (Grande Terre): Average length of 10.5″ (Snout to Vent Length) with the largest specimen reaching 13″ (SVL, Type C) R. leachianus henkeli (Offshore): Average length of 5.9″ (Snout to Vent Length) with the largest specimen reaching 8.1″ (SVL)

Sexing
Sex can be determined at 3″ SVL using an 8x photographers loupe. Males will have pre-anal pores, and a post-anal hemipenile bulge. Females may also have femoral pores that can trick an untrained eye. Femoral pores lack the distinctive dark pit with crinkled edges and can appear smooth and shiny or slightly dimpled.

 

Longevity 
Potentially long lived with an estimated expectancy of fifteen years in captivity.

Temperature 
Much the same as other geckos of the genus a temperature range of 70F to 80F is adequate. Never allow the temperature to fall below 65F or above 85F as prolong exposure to extreme temperatures can lead to death.

Humidity 
Humidity should be between 60-80% with a proper humidity cycle. Allow the enclosure to dry out for a period during the day. Giant Geckos are far more susceptible to bacterial infections than any other Rhacodactylus. Do not allow the environment to be completely wet. Limit the misting of the enclosure to the walls or areas that giant geckos do not readily rest at. Keep in mind that Bacteria thrives in moist, wet environments where sunlight is absent.

Diet 
Giant Geckos are a frugivorous species – feeding on fruit and live prey. Fruit based meal replacement offered 3 times a week and left in the enclosure for two days and 1 to 2 feedings of live prey such as crickets or roaches is adequate. I generally offer 2oz of a meal replacement powder and by the second evening the entire 2oz is gone. More food is consumed on the second evening as the MRP is becoming ripe than on the first evening as it is fresh. Feeding live prey can be difficult at first. A robust prey item is more readily consumed than one which measures the width between the eyes. If crickets are not consumed then offer only one, slightly larger than the width between the eyes, at a time and leave it in the enclosure overnight. Roaches should be the same width between the eyes of the gecko and no larger. Coat all insects with a calcium/mineral supplement that contains Vitamin D3. Baby food is not a staple diet and leads to Metabolic Bone Disease. I highly recommend against feeding baby-food to any frugivorous species and instead using a formulated meal replacement powder such as Repashy Superfoods Crested Gecko Diet.

Housing 
Since this is a semi-arboreal species a vertical rather than horizontal enclosure is recommended. You will want to find an enclosure that is suitable enough to hold humidity. Opaque plastic enclosures work great with holding humidity and allowing the gecko to feel comfortable. The enclosure should have ample hiding places, thick branches and sturdy foliage. Cork hollow and flats work well with this species. The substrate can be organic soil, coconut fiber, or paper towel. Hatchlings to Juveniles are recommended to be on paper towel only due to the potential of ingesting the substrate while hunting for live prey. Below are the recommended enclosures.

• Hatchling (First year): A five/ten gallon enclosure.
• Juvenile (Second year): A twenty gallon enclosure.
• Adult (Third year+): A thirty gallon enclosure.

Breeding 
We recommend reading Rhacodactylus: The Complete Guide to their Selection and Care.

Incubation 
We only recommend SuperHatch as an incubation medium. Temperatures should be regulated between 72F and 80F. The greater the incubation temperature the shorter the incubation time, and lower the incubation temperature the longer the duration. Temperature sex determination (TSD) is effective with incubating Giant Gecko eggs.

Juvenile Care 

We house single hatchlings in an opaque 5 gallon enclosure until they reach 10-15 grams in weight where we move them into a 10 gallon enclosure until they reach 60-75 grams in weight and by this time move them into a 20 gallon enclosure until adult hood where they will remain in a 30 gallon enclosure. Feeding is exactly the same as our adults with the only difference being the amount of food. Feeding live prey is important at this stage so coaxing the individual to feed on crickets and roaches is done with the methods above. A single cricket or roach as a robust prey item once or twice a week if consumed and coated with a vitamin/mineral supplement will aid in straightening a zig-zag tail that most hatchling to juveniles hatch with.

원글 주소 : http://www.leachianus.com/discover-the-giant-gecko.html

The New Caledonian Giant Gecko, Rhacodactylus leachianus, is the largest gecko of the genus and the largest known living gecko. Their ability to produce calls ranging from whistles and hisses to growls and grumbles has peaked the interest of even the most experienced gecko keepers. The varying color and patterns of the different localities makes an amazing display animal for any home vivarium or collection.

The body shape appears uniform from snout to vent with varying traits of each locality. Base color can range from green, brown, grey and even black with white, pink and yellow accent colors. While the Grande Terre localities (Poindimie, Mount Koghis, Yate, Mount Humboldt and Riviere Bleue) are the largest of the subspecies the Offshore Island localities (Isle of Pines, Menore, Bayonnaise, Moro, Duu Ana, Nuu Ana, Nuu Ami, Koe, Brosse, Caanawa) tend to be the most attractive with bands, blotches or spots of white, yellow or pink coloring.

Housing
This species is greatly arboreal. In nature they spend the majority of their time in tree hollows or branches high in the tree top. To properly keep this species you will want to utilize three vertical cage sizes for the three stages of life; hatchling, juvenile and adult.

1. Hatchling, should be housed in a 5 to 10 gallon enclosure at the maximum. These small cage sizes help the gecko feel comfortable much like it would in a tree hollow. Also helps this somewhat lazy species to feed on insects.
2. Juvenile, should be housed in a 10-20 gallon (16L x 16W x 20H) enclosure at the maximum.
3. Adult, should be housed in a 20-30 gallon enclosure at the maximum. We use 18 x 18 x 24 ZooMed cages for our single adults and at these dimensions there is too much cage space. An 18 x 18 x 18 enclosure would be better suited for these geckos.

  The enclosure should offer hiding places such as cork bark flats vertically orientated or cork hollows . Hatchlings can use paper towel rolls to mimic this natural hiding place. We also recommend thick branches wider than the body of the gecko is.

Keep in mind that an opaque enclosure or ABS plastic enclosure in either black or white will also help this species to feel secluded as they naturally are in the wild.

Temperature, Humidity & Lighting 
Our Giant Geckos are kept between 72 °F and 80 °F for the majority of the year. All of our Rhacodactylus geckos experience a brumation period where the temperature falls to a low of 65-70 °F to prevent continued egg production. The temperature should never fall below 65 °F or rise above 85 °F as this species has a hard time tolerating these temperatures. The humidity should be between 60-80% with a proper humidity cycle. We recommend the humidity cycle, allowing the humidity to lower below 60%, to dry out the enclosure and prevent bacteria buildup. This species is susceptable to bacterial infection far greater than any of the counterparts in the genus. For prevention we do not mist the decor of the enclosure the gecko naturally rests on for extended periods of the day and rather mist the walls of the enclosure (exluding the floor). Lighting can benefit Giant Geckos a number of ways. Our Offshore Island individuals will often be seen sitting on the top of the branches under full spectrum lighting. It is also believed that proper lighting will aid in the development of color. We do not off full spectrum lighting any longer to our Giant Geckos and instead offer a day/night cycle through a skylight in the gecko room. Color has not been seen to diminish but there is pigment enhancing ingredients in the Crested Gecko Diet we offer our Giant Geckos.

Average High Temperature

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
°C	28	28	27	26	25	23	22	22	23	25	26	27	28
°F	83	83	82	80	77	74	72	72	74	77	80	82	78

Average Low Temperature

	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
°C	23	23	23	22	20	18	17	17	18	19	21	22	20
°F	74	75	74	72	69	66	64	64	65	67	70	72	69

Average High and Low Relative Humidity

%	Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec	Year
High	85	86	86	84	83	83	80	79	79	81	82	83	83
Low	74	75	76	75	75	76	72	70	68	68	70	72	73

Diet & Nutrition 
New Caledonian Giant Geckos are omnivorous feeding on insects, small mammals, fruits and nectars. Hatchling to Juveniles will feed on a single robust cricket, feeder roach and meal replacement powder while adults may lose interest in crickets but continue to eat feeder roaches along with pinkie mice and meal replacement powder.

Meal Replacement Powder We started using Crested Gecko Diet by Repashy Superfoods before our first Giant Gecko purchase. This product is made from human grade ingredients and has helped problematic geckos that we acquired from keepers who did not provide a balanced diet. In short we highly recommend this product and as such offer it in the Reptile Specialty Store. Our Giant Geckos will consume 2oz (roughly 1oz a night) of CGD during the summer months.

Live Feeders A lot of new keepers will often offer a number of crickets to their Giant Gecko and notice little to no interest from the Giant Gecko. This is where the criticism of the lazy or laxidaisy behavior comes into play. We found that a good amount of movement on the ground floor of the enclosure actually makes this species uncomfortable. Offering one cricket of a robust size and measuring the width between the eyes will coax the gecko to eat. As the Giant Gecko grows older you may offer feeder roaches and pinkie mice. We offer pinkies only once or twice a month and feeder roaches weekly. This species may appear as a difficult eater to the novice keeper.

Weekly Feeding Routine On a consistent routine your geckos will be familiarized with the food and how often it is fed. We like to feed all our Rhacodactylus geckos 4 times a week. We offer fresh Crested Gecko Diet three times a week; Monday, Wednesday and Friday. We allow the diet to stay in the enclosure until we replace it on that third night. We find that as the diet becomes ripe the geckos tend to consume more of it. In nature a piece of fruit that falls to the ground and begins to ripen (not spoil) allows for the geckos to be more apt to smell, find and consume the fruit. On Sunday we remove all food from the enclosure and offer live prey that has been dusted with vitamins and minerals and gut loaded the night before. Any mixed but unserved diet is placed in the refrigerator or freezer for future feeding.

Handling and Taming 
Each individual will have its own personality and acceptability to handling. This species has been coined as having cage aggression and believed to stem from protecting their territory in the wild. However, there are some individual geckos that do not exhibit the same cage aggression and previously mentioned and can be removed from the enclosure without problem. We handle our Giant Geckos weekly if not every other night. Using a glove to remove them from the enclosure or a tightly knit terry cloth towel to prevent injury from bites to the handler. Once removed from the enclosure the temperament is calm and relaxed especially from a non-threatening handler. We often remove an aggressive individual to allow them to rest on our shoulder as we clean and feed other geckos. Hatchling to juveniles are less apt to express cage aggression and more likely to be flighty. For these geckos we use the hand walking method to calm and relax the gecko. After a while they become tame and allow us to remove and handle without any problems. When these geckos start reaching maturity we have noticed they start presenting signs of cage aggression with threatening stance and growls, grumbles or clucking and whistles. This is the point we begin using gloves. Great care should be given to handling this species to prevent injury to the handler.

Sexing 
Sex can be determined at 3" SVL using an 8x photographers loupe. Males will have pre-anal pores, and a post-anal hemipenile bulge. Females may also have femoral or pseudo pores that can trick an untrained eye. Femoral pores lack the distinctive dark pit with crinkled edges and can appear smooth and shiny or slightly dimpled.

Breeding
Breeding Giant Geckos may be a daunting task and the main reason they continue to be expensive to own. This species forms compatible pairs and should be housed as such. However, a compatible pair can become incompatible at any time and often the smaller of the two (generally the male) will receive injuries that can be fatal. There are a few tricks that can be done to help introduce a pair.

Familiarity Place two separate enclosures side by side with one individual gecko in each. Allow the geckos to visually see each other. The screen side of an enclosure will help for scent and smell acceptance. Territorial Females?Releasing a male into a females enclosure should be done with a means to protect the male and judge the females demeanor.

Signs of Copulation The male will often make clucking noises and head bobbing to warrant his interest in copulation with the female. You should observe the pair as much as possible during introduction and copulation to intervene if aggression becomes apparent. Even a compatible pair can become incompatible at any time.

Incubation 
This species is Temperature Sex Determined. Incubate eggs between temperatures of upper 60 °F and lower 80 °F. The higher the temperature the lower the incubation time and greater chance of producing males. The lower the temperature, the longer the incubation time and greater chance of females produced.

Juvenile Care 

We house juveniles in medium to large Kritter Keepers for their first year of life. With a single cricket an offering and Crested Gecko Diet being the primary source of nutrition. Cage furnishing is paper towel substrate and paper towel rolls for climbing and hiding. A single fake plant like hanging ficus is also offered. We keep the same feeding schedule for hatchlings to juveniles as we do adults. The only difference is the amount of food offered. Tom's Kritter Keepers with the locking top hold humidity the best but to ensure a proper humidity cycle we drill 20 1/4" holes on either side for greater ventilation.

원글 주소 : http://www.reptilespecialty.com/giant-gecko-care-sheet-rhacodactylus-leachianus.html

New Caledonian Giant Gecko- Rhacodactylus leachianus

The Giant Gecko is a native of both the mainland and several islands off the shore of New Caledonia. There are several different locales that are based on the area that they originate from. The largest of the locales is the Grand Terre (mainland), while some of the smaller morphs such as the Pine Isle, Moro, Bayonnaise, Nuu Ana and Nuu Ami can be differentiated based on their patterning and scalation by experts. These New Caledonian geckos are the largest living gecko species, and have won the hearts of many reptile keepers. Individuals are said to have distinct personalities, and range the gamut from big sweethearts to large, nasty biters with attitude. 

DO NOT FEED WILD INSECTS OR INSECTS FOUND AROUND THE HOUSE – THEY MAY CARRY DISEASES THAT COULD BE DEADLY TO YOUR PET 

Average Size: Varies depending on locale. Grand Terres are the largest and may be well over 200 grams and 17 inches total length. 

Life Span: Well over 15 years if properly cared for. 

Diet: Perhaps the best part of keeping Giant Geckos is that they do not need to be fed live prey. They are an omnivorous species, which in the wild eats both insects and rotting fruits and flowers. In captivity they can be fed an excellent powdered diet produced by Allen Repashy. This diet comes in multiple flavors as part of a two part mix and can be ordered from Julie Bergman at The Gecko Ranch. It is mixed with water to make a nutritionally complete food that Giant Geckos just love! Alternatively, a fruit and meat baby food, vitamin/ mineral supplement/ honey/ spirulina/ bee pollen mix can be used in conjunction with insects such as mealworms, waxworms and gutloaded, mineral powder dusted crickets. The complete powder is easier to use and less likely to cause nutritional deficiencies than home made diets. While the powder is easier to use, better growth rates are shown when lizards are fed. Growth rates when pinkies are fed are somewhere between those of feeding MRP and lizards. Most important, do not feed your Giant Gecko on only baby food, lizards, insects or pinkies. Either use a mix of foods, or a complete powdered diet. 

Feeding: If feeding Allen's diets solely most keepers feed either daily or every other day, leaving the dish in there for a second night. Since the Giant Gecko is nocturnal, feeding at night time just before lights out is recommended. If feeding live prey or killed pinkies with complete powdered diet, the alternative food should be offered no more than once a week. Mealworms should be fed very sparingly as they are very fibrous and can cause impactions. Crickets should not be larger than the width of the head of the smallest gecko in the tank. All crickets should be properly gutloaded and dusted with mineral powder (no phosphorous)/ vitamin supplement before feeding. Many Giant Geckos do not seem to be overly thrilled with worms and crickets; they far prefer lizards or mouse pinks. 

Housing: Giant Geckos can be housed in either screen or glass/ plexi enclosures. In drier areas it is recommended that glass/ plexi cages be used to provide adequate humidity. In areas with higher humidity screen cages are excellent for providing adequate ventilation. Cages should be permitted to dry out entirely during the day following a heavy night time misting. Housing should be chosen to permit this to occur, otherwise problems with molding of the housing from too high of humidity can occur, or the animals can have retained shed due to low humidity. Some people prefer to go with cages having a greater percent of the sides covered with glass or plexi as the fecal material of R. leachianus tends to be somewhat runny, depending on their diet. 

Size: Since the Giant Gecko is arboreal (lives in the trees) it strongly prefers a cage that is taller than it is long. Young geckos can be kept in small (ten gallon or even less) cages until they are about 20 grams. Housing that is too large should be avoided when keeping very young geckos as they may have trouble finding their food. A single adult gecko can be housed in an enclosure that is 3 feet long X 2 feet deep X four feet tal, though many people sucessfully house and breed them in much smaller cages. Multiple males should NEVER be housed together as they will fight to the death. Females can be housed together, though some may have personality differences and quarrel. Even males and females must be carefully paired for breeding as not all individuals are compatible. 

Substrate: Paper towels or cage liners are by far the easiest substrate to use, though not very aesthetically pleasing. If males and females are housed together with the intent of breeding they will make finding the eggs much simpler, however. For a more pleasing set up cocofiber can be used as a substrate and planted nicely. Caution must be used if feeding insects on cocofiber however, as the geckos may ingest it when feeding. Reptile barks can also provide a nice substrate, though they carry the same risk of ingestion. NEVER use pine/ cedar chips intended for small mammals as they can make your gecko very, very ill. 

Habitat: Giant Geckos love their vertical space. Bamboo poles, branches and vertically placed cork flats will make your geckos very happy. They are also especially fond of plants, such as Mother- in Law Plants, Pothos (which is extremely hardy) and anything else strong enough to support their weight, both live and fake. The more hiding places that you give your gecko the less stressed it will be, and consequently healthier. Cork curls also make excellent hides and can be siliconed in place on the sides of the enclosure. 

Grooming and Hygiene: Giant Geckos require very little actual grooming. Most important is to maintain adequate humidity to prevent retained sheds. In the case of a retained shed the gecko can be carefully soaked in warm water, or placed in a small plastic container (with holes punched) with damp paper towels for 30 minutes twice daily until the shed is removed. Always wash your hands before and after touching your gecko or habitat contents to help prevent Salmonella and other infectious diseases 

Temperature: Giant Geckos prefer to be kept at room temperature (from 65- 80 degrees F). They experience stress at temperatures over 85 or under 65 degrees. It is advisable to provide a 75 watt light bulb for your gecko to bask under should it choose if your house is unusually cold. 

Lighting: As a nocturnal species your Giant Gecko will likely not come out when the lights are on, nor do they have any lighting requirements. If you are going to plant your tank a full spectrum bulb is recommended 

Water: Provide a constant supply of clean, fresh, filtered, chlorine-free water in a shallow bowl that cannot be tipped over. Using a plant mister, mist your Giant Gecko heavily twice daily. They will eagerly lap the water off of the surfaces in their enclosure, and the misting will provide much needed humidity. 

Habitat Maintenance: Change water in the bowl daily; remove feces daily. Thoroughly clean the tank at least once a week.

Recommended Supplies:

Misting bottle Water dish Food dish Meal Replacement Powder Live or fake plants

Cork bark/ bamboo/ branches Tank/ screen enclosure with secure lid/ door Light, if desired Paper towels or Cocofiber for substrate

Normal Behavior and Interaction: Giant Geckos are a nocturnal species that will spend all day sleeping. Once they get up in the evening they are amusing to watch wandering around their cage. At night it is not uncommon to hear growls, squeaks, barks and yips as they talk to each other in the same cage, and to geckos in other cages. If you intend to handle your Giant Gecko start while it is young. A large adult male that has never can be handled can be an intimidating sight as it attacks its owner during cage cleaning, and can leave a nasty bite mark. However, individuals that are handled gently and regularly from a young age can make sweet, gentle pets. It is important to remember that some of this depends on the personality of the individual gecko and that even with regular handling some may never learn to like being held. 

Two warnings should be heeded , however. First , Giant Geckos may hold still for a very long time when being handled and then take a leap! Animals that are not accustomed to handling should be kept close to the ground until they have lost their desire for flight. Second , if your Giant Gecko drops its tail it will never look the same again, though it will grow back. Rough handling and overly stressing your gecko should be avoided if you want your pet to retain its caudal appendage. 

Signs of a Healthy Pet:

Active and alert Healthy skin Clear eyes

Eats regularly Clear nose and vent

Common Health Issues and Red Flags:

Weight loss or decreased appetite Mucus in mouth or nose Swelling Lethargy Bumps, sores, or abrasions on skin Labored breathing

Paralysis of limbs or tail Abnormal feces Inability to climb Kinked tail Floppy jaw

Mites: Although mostly uncommon in a private collection, mites are a possible complication. They will most likely be noticed first around the eyes or the corners of the mouth as little round, black/brown or red creepy creatures. They can be treated by many commercial products available at a local pet shop or by a veterinary strength solution available from your veterinarian. Be sure to follow the directions on the product. Treatment of mites usually takes close to a month of continuous care as eggs can hatch daily and must be 'taken care of' ASAP. These little bugs have an extraordinary reproductive rate. If you have more than the 1 infested reptile, take extra precautions not to transfer the mites from one to another. 

Impaction: If you are keeping your Giant Gecko on a natural substrate and feeding insects/ lizards/ pinkies it will likely ingest some of the substrate at each feeding. In small quantities this will not be overly harmful, but in large quantities your gecko may become impacted with substrate in its intestine, a condition that is almost invariably fatal. Prompt treatment by an exotics vet may save your pets life. 

Calcium Deficiency: Without adequate calcium in your Giant Gecko's diet, aside from a slow growth rate, you will more than likely encounter Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). The first symptom usually noticed is uncontrolled twitching of the geckos toes or legs, a floppy jaw, or a kinked tail. This can be a fatal disease if not treated promptly. If this problem occurs, we suggest raising the amount of calcium in the gecko's diet immediately. If there is no change in a few days, consider veterinary care as an option. This is most common in breeding females. Feeding Allen Repashy's Complete Diets will prevent the occurance of MBD and can also help to treat it. 

Internal Parasites: A common disease causing internal parasite in Giant Gecko's is Entameoba invadens, which needs to be diagnosed and treated by a veterinarian. If left untreated too long it can be fatal. Other internal parasites are also possible in Giant Geckos, and can be diagnosed by your veterinarian via a stool sample. Signs of E. invadens infection include weight loss, lethargy and generally poor condition.

Egg Binding: Egg binding is relatively common in female Rhacodactylus geckos with the Giant gecko being no exception. All female geckos are at risk, though those on poor diets or bred too young are at a higher risk level than those that are of proper breeding size and on a good nutritional plane. Signs of egg binding include failing to drop both eggs in a clutch, failing to lay a clutch at the expected time, anorexia and lethargy. Egg binding is normally an emergency by the time it is recognized, and typically needs to be corrected surgically. If you suspect egg binding take your Giant gecko to a good exotics veterinarian with an interest in reptiles as soon as possible.

If you suspect any of these conditions, please contact your exotic animal veterinarian. The typical small animal practitioner may not have sufficient knowledge in this area. Even this guide is general in nature and should not be used to diagnose your pet.

원글 주소 : http://www.genevievesgeckos.com/site/care_sheet_R_leachianus.html

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각 케어시트 별 공통 사항 

케어 시트별 공통사항으로는 온도 와 주요 먹이 정도 겠네요 .

각 케어시트 (비록 3개밖에 안되지만) 을 보시면 

온도는 화씨기준 최소 65 화씨 최대 85화씨 까지라고 되어있네요.

화씨를 섭씨로 바꾸면 최소 18 도 최대 29.5 도 (넉넉잡아30도) 를 넘지 말라고 되어있네요 

이제 주요 먹이로는 레파시 슈퍼푸드 (MRP) 와 귀뚜라미, 왁스웜, 로치, 핑키 가 언급되어있는데

공통적으로 MRP 를 주요 먹이로 서술하고있으며 

습도는 60~80% 사이를 유지하라고 되어있네요. 

기타적인 사항은 너무 고큽 영어(?) 인지라... 

이상 오랜만에 쓴 쓸대없는 포스팅 이었습니다.